????出于玩性與保守浪漫主義的個性，羅瑞克對一些不知名的葡萄品種情有獨鐘，這些葡萄可以說是繼承和發(fā)揚了加利福尼亞的葡萄種植傳統(tǒng)?！霸S多不知名的葡萄品種之所以會出現(xiàn)在加利福尼亞，是因為早期的移民千里迢迢地把它們從故鄉(xiāng)帶來，種植在自己的后院之中。作為一個移民國家，對不同的葡萄品種兼容并包難道不是加利福尼亞的傳統(tǒng)之所在嗎？”目前，羅瑞克也試圖為這個傳統(tǒng)增添濃墨重彩的一筆，他在一個新開辟的葡萄園中混種了灰特盧梭、白詩南（Chenin Blanc）、綠匈牙利葡萄（Green Hungarian）、Putzscheere以及夏瑟拉(Chasselas)等葡萄品種。

????2009年，哈迪?華萊士辭去了技術(shù)銷售的職位。第二年，他便與妻子及好友一道，成立了Dirty和Rowdy家庭釀造公司（Dirty and Rowdy Family Winery）。華萊士在業(yè)內(nèi)還是新人，他一邊經(jīng)營公司，一邊還要學習葡萄酒釀制技術(shù)，同時還反復不斷地試驗新品。他的旗艦佳釀所選用的葡萄全部產(chǎn)自慕合懷特的兩個古老的葡萄園，他與妻子凱特?格雷厄姆一起重新復原了這些葡萄園。華萊士將古老葡萄園中所種植的果實與高風險的釀造方式相結(jié)合，而這些葡萄酒所采用的釀造方法以前僅僅適用于法國博若萊（Beaujolais）的佳美葡萄（Gamay）?！拔覀円郧皬膩頉]有聽說過有人用這樣的方法釀造慕合懷特葡萄酒，”華萊士說。“我們敢于冒這樣的風險是因為我們根本就不知道這樣做最終是否能夠做成功?！痹诘谝煌熬漆勚瞥晒蟮娜陜?nèi)，他們生產(chǎn)的葡萄酒一直供不應(yīng)求。Dirty和Rowdy公司于2011年所釀制的葡萄酒在短短的三周之內(nèi)就銷售一空。

????身處這樣的草根運動之中，葡萄酒釀造商們寧可制定一個平易近人的售價，也不愿牟取暴利。他們所生產(chǎn)的大部分葡萄酒的售價都在20到30美元之間。“葡萄酒應(yīng)該是擺在餐桌上的，應(yīng)該成為人們?nèi)粘Ｉ畹囊徊糠?，”Massican的釀造師丹?佩特羅斯基說。在這樣全面的努力之下，“開發(fā)一款酒品帶動銷量是實現(xiàn)商業(yè)成功的唯一途徑，”這些葡萄酒的目標就是讓消費者也參與到酒品的創(chuàng)新與試驗之中?！捌咸丫撇粦?yīng)該被人們高高在上地供在神壇之上，”佩特羅斯基說。“葡萄酒應(yīng)該走進普通人的生活?！保ㄘ敻恢形木W(wǎng)）

????譯者：唐昕昕?

????With equal parts playfulness and die-hard romanticism, Rorick has a soft spot for the lesser-known underdog grapes that pay homage to California's viticultural heritage. "Many obscure grapes exist in California because immigrants brought them over and planted them in their backyards. As an immigrant country, isn't having an eclectic selection of grapes what California is all about?" Rorick is currently leaving his own footprint by planting a new vineyard with a field blend of Trousseau Gris, Chenin Blanc, Green Hungarian, Putzscheere, and Chasselas.

????For newcomer Hardy Wallace [pictured], who began Dirty and Rowdy Family Winery with his wife and best friends in2010 after dropping a job in tech sales in 2009, relentless experimentation has gone hand in hand with his learn-as-you-go approach to winemaking. His flagship wines come from three old vineyards of Mourvèdre that he and his wife, Kate Graham have resuscitated. Combining ancient vines with a high-risk approach to winemaking, the wines are fermented using a technique that has traditionally only been used on Gamay grapes in the French region of Beaujolais. "We didn't know of anyone who had ever tried to ferment Mourvédre that way," says Wallace. "We took a risk because we were too ignorant to know whether or not it could be done." Three years after their first vintage, they can hardly keep up with demand. Dirty and Rowdy sold all of their 2011 production in three weeks.

????Within this grassroots movement, the winemakers would rather keep their wines accessible than rake in a bigger profit margin. Most of their wines ring in between $20-$30. "Wines should be on the table. They should be part of life," says Dan Petroski, winemaker at Massican. Withbootstrapped operations across the board, "having a model hinged on direct sales is the only way to keep business viable." The goal of these wines is to have consumers experiment with them. "Wine shouldn't be put on a pedestal," says Petroski. "Wine should be personal."?